Cincinnati’s Chili War
I was born in Cincinnati but mostly raised 45 minutes northwest of the city in a village of 700 people. Whenever I return to the area, I start my search for chili; not the fiery more well known Texas variety.
Cincinnati style, which always contains beef, tomatoes, cinnamon, cumin, and a variety of spices. And, NO, there is no chocolate in Cincinnati chili. The recipe is based on a Greek meat stew called Saltsa Kima which immigrants from Macedonia brought with them.
Map of Macedonia
Greater Cincinnati has more than 200 chili parlors and they eat more than two million pounds per year. Even food writer Anthony Bourdain and humorist Fran Lebowitz have enjoyed a bowl. But I didn't realize how much of a fan I was until I moved to attend grad school at UCLA. Then the longing for Cincinnati’s comfort food kicked in.
The Kiradjieff brothers were fleeing from the Greco-Turkish War, transporting the cuisine with them to 1922. “Cincinnati” chili actually originated in northern Kentucky. They opened Empress a Coney Island-type place inside of a burlesque theatre. Then customers thought of changes, including pouring it over spaghetti noodles. Then they added shredded cheese.
Tasting Notes: I ordered a 3-way at every chili parlor to compare. The bowls in which the chili is served come in two shapes. The chili is accompanied by oyster crackers and hot sauce on the side. The noodles are very similar too.
Empress has the least spice of all that I tasted. There was less shredded Cheddar style cheese too.
Next was Dixie Chili in 1929 which invented the “ways” system — 5 or 6 ways. Also located in northern Kentucky.
How to order Cincinnati chili:
Two-way: Chili on spaghetti
Three-way: Chili on spaghetti with shredded cheese — usually cheddar
Four-way bean: Beans (usually kidney) between the chili and cheese
Four-way onion: Chopped raw onions instead of beans
Five-way: All of the above
Six-way: Garlic. Only Dixie offers this way
Dixie Chili is more meatier than Empress and offers more spice. But because I added garlic, maybe that amplified the spice level.
Camp Washington Chili came along in 1940. It's a diner opened by Greek immigrants. The meat is ground daily with a secret blend of 18 spices. This chili parlor is located in Cincinnati. Then the others followed.
This is my “go to” chili place! It’s even meatier and has more chunks than the others. It’s moderate in the spice level.
If you need a break from the Chili Trail, the American Sign Museum is well worth the stop! It’s close to Camp Washington Chili also.
Skyline Chili arrived in 1949 and has locations as far north as the edge of Cleveland making it the most recognized Cincinnati chili restaurant. The original family sold the business in the 1990s.
The chili has the most spice and it’s thinner than Camp Washington’s.
In 1965 the Daoud family immigrated to Cincinnati from Jordan, to open Gold Star Chili. Seeing much success they opened more restaurants across the Middle East also. It’s still run by the family.
It’s very similar to Skyline which I prefer over Gold Star. Fights within my family have occurred over Skyline vs. Gold Star.
For more Cincinnati chili parlors. Or you can have the chili on a steamed hot dog in a bun, with shredded cheddar cheese piled on top. (My preference, is to add some mustard and diced onions too.)
At several chili parlors, you can find chili on baked potatoes, burritos, salads, and more. But why? Unless you're one of those pineapple goes on pizza people.